Showing posts with label Cumbria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cumbria. Show all posts

Thursday, 20 June 2019

Cumbria pace-egg plays

Cumbria pace-egging


Pace-eggers performing at Ulverston around 1901


I HAVE no specific interest in pace-egg plays or their winter-time equivalent, mummer plays but they obviously crop up when researching folklore in the county. I've made copies of some of the more obscure texts that survive and publish three of them here just for the fun of it. Pace-egging was usually done at Easter with performers going door to door to enact a piece of doggerel about a hero and villain fighting. The hero was usually 'killed' but then miraculously revived to fight another day. The whole would end with a song and the hat being passed round. The scripts varied from village to village but with common themes. At Christmas the performers would dress up as mummers, wearing brightly-coloured outfits and sometimes blackening their faces. They might perform the same play they did at Easter or a different one.

Flookburgh pace-egg play


From Looking Back... Recollections of life in Cark, Flookburgh and District first published in 2008, republished in 2001

From the memories of Miss Blanche Stephenson:

"Nobody had much holidays then. You haven't got t' paste egging song like we had in them days. You used to dress up and black your face with a bit of cork, then you'd go round singing like you do at Christmas and knock on doors for money or eggs or whatever they'd gie you. Then we used to go on to Robin Howe to roll our eggs."

Flookburgh Paste* Egg Play
(This should be 'pace' or 'pasche' - Alan Cleaver)

We are two or three jolly boys
All in one mind
We've come a paste egging
If you will prove kind
If you will prove kind with your eggs and strong beer
We'll come no more paste egging till the next year

Chorus: With a folda ay oddle ay oddle ay oh
Folds ay oddle ay a

The first to come in is Lord Nelson you see
A bunch of blue ribbon tied to his knee
A star on his breast like silver does shine
He hopes you'll remember it's paste-egging time

Repeat Chorus

The next to come in is a jovial Jack Tar
He said with Lord Nelson all during the last war
He's arrived from sea old England to view
He hopes you'll remember our jolly crew

Repeat Chorus

The next to come in is old Tosspot you see
He's a valiant old man in every degree
He's a valiant old man and he wears a pigtail
And all his delight is in drinking mulled ale

Repeat Chorus

The last to come in is old Liza Brown bags
For fear of her money she wears her old rags
She's got gold, she's got silver all laid up in store
She's come a paste egging to try to get more

Repeat Chorus

Now Ladies and Gentlemen sitting by the fire
Put your hands in your pockets that's all we desire
Put your you hands in your pockets and pull out your purse
And give us a trifle you'll find it no worse

Repeat Chorus

Ulverston pace-egg play


This script is from the Feb 1900 edition of the North Lonsdale magazine - a copy of which can be found at the Armitt Museum and Library at Ambleside. The author is  (Rev) T.N. Postlethwaite who Google tells me was Vicar of Urswick, near Ulverston from 1903-26 and an antiquarian.



OPENING DITTY

Here come two or three jolly boys all in one mind,
We've come a pace-egging and hope you'll prove kind,
We hope you'll prove kind with your eggs and strong beer,
And we'll come no more nigh you until the next year.
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

The first to come in is a bold Turkish knight,
From far distant county quite ready to fight,
He will meet with St. George and will fight with him here,
And show him a hero knows nothing of fear.
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

The next to come in is old Tosspot you see,
A valiant old fellow in every degree,
He's a hump on his back and he wears a pig-tail,
And all his delight is in drinking mulled ale,
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

The last to come in is our Betty Brown Bags,
For fear of her money she goes in old rags,
She's a purse for her money, a basket for eggs,
If you'll give her a trifle it's all that she begs,
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

PLAY.

(Enter Tosspot).
Hello, Hello. In comes I who never came yet,
Big head and little wit, but let my wit be ever so small,
I and my Pompey will wallop you all
(shakes his stick at audience).
Stir up the fire and strike a light,
For in this house we mean to fight,
If you won't believe the word I say,
In steps S. George and clears the way.

(Enter S. George).

In steps I, S. George, the noble champion bold,
With my right hand and glittering sword,
I've won £10,000 in gold,
'Twas I that fought the fiery dragon and brought him down to slaughter,
And by these means I've won my Queen, the King of Egypt's daughter,

(Enter Turk).

In come I bold Turk, brave slasher is my name,
I've fought in many an awful fight, and always won the game.

(S. George)
The game Sir, the game Sir, its not in thy power,
I'll cut thee in slices in less than half an hour,
I'll chop thee, I'll chop thee as small as flies,
And send thee over land and sea to make mince pies.
(threatens with his sword).

(Bold Turk).
Mince pies hot, mince pies cold,
I'll send thee to the Devil before three days are told.
(pulls S. George's nose.)

(S. George).
What is that thou say'st?

(Bold Turk).
What I say I mean to do.

(S. George).
Pull out thy purse and pay.

(Bold Turk).
No, no my lad, before I'll pay
I'll draw my sword and fight my way.

(S. George).
(with swagger)
My head is made of iron, my body's made of steel,
My hands and arms are knuckley bones,
I'll fight thee on this field.

(Bold Turk).
Thy challenge is accepted, to thee I'll never yield,
Till thou and I have conquered upon this bloody field)
(They fight, St G. kills B.T.)

(Enter Betty Brown Bags).
S. George, S George what hast thou done?
Thou'st been and slain my only son,
My only son, my only heir,
Can'st thou not see him bleeding there?

(S. George).
He challenged me to fight and why should I deny?
I've let him see S. George was born to conquer or to die.
(swaggers).

(Tosspot).
Is there never a doctor to be found,
To cure this poor man of his deadly wound?
I'll give £5, £10, £15 for a doctor.

(Enter Doctor).
I'll not come under £30.

(Tosspot).
I'll give £20 for a doctor.

(Doctor).
Well as you're only a poor chap,
I'll charge you £19 19s 11 3/4d, here I am a rare good hatter.

(Tosspot).
I'm not in want of a hatter, I want a doctor.

(Doctor).
O yes, I'm Jack of all trades and master of none.

(Tosspot).
How came you to be a doctor?

(Doctor).
By my travels

(Tosspot).
How far have you travelled?

(Doctor).
From Italy, Spitaly, France and Spain,
Three tmes round the world and back again.

(Tosspot).
What is that all?

(Doctor).
Oh no, I have travelled from the tip-top of the high ocean to 90 degrees below the bottom, where I saw houses built of rounds of beef, pancakes for slates and black puddings for nails. I saw also pigs running about the streets with knives and forks in their jaws, crying out "eat me, eat me; here is a living, who would die?"

(Tosspot).
What is that all?

(Doctor).
Oh no, as I was walking up St. Paul's churchyard even the very dead rose up crying out after me "Doctor, Doctor, give me one of your never failing pills, a real awakener," I have pills for the complexion; if you rub them in at night tho' you are as red as beetroot in the morning you'll be white. They will cure a smoky chimney, they will take away the kettle's boil, they are made of cart grease, Dutch cheese, soap and castor oil.

(Tosspot).
What is that all?

(Doctor).
Oh no, I have travelled from the fire side to the stair's foot, from the stair's foot to the stair's head three times round my grand-dam's bed-stock, where I got many a leg of mouse, butter and scouse, pig-beef and ham that makes me as far and lusty as I am.

(Tosspot).
I wasn't saying anything about fat.

(Doctor).
Nor I about lean.

(Tosspot).
What are you talking about?

(Doctor).
About what I can cure.

(Tosspot).
What can you cure?

(Doctor).
The itch, the stitch, the palsy and the gout, if there are 19 devils in yon man I'll bring 20 out. Here I have in my pocket crutches for lame ducks, spectacles for blind bees, back saddles and panniers for grass-hoppers. I once cured Sir Harry Brand of a long toe nail, I'm sure it was so long (holds out his hands); surely I can bring this poor man to life again.

(Tosspot).
Then bring him to life again.

(Doctor).
How long has he been dead?

(Tosspot).
Perhaps 3 minutes and a half.

(Doctor).
I don't think he has been dead so long but I cannot bring him to life. Here I bet my watch and chain that I do.

(Tosspot).
And I'll be mine (brings out a turnip)

(Doctor).
I've a little bottle in my inside, outside, left side, right side, waistcoat pocket, which my poor grandmother gave me on her death-bed before I left Spain, she said it would bring any dead man to life again.

(Tosspot).
Then bring this man.

(Doctor).
So I will. Here lad open thy thripplety thropplety, and let a few drops of my nipplety nopplety, run down thy thripplety thropplety. Rise up, bold Turk, and fight again.

(Bold Turk).
(Stretching himself)
Where have I been all this long and wear war?

(S. George)
Fighting with the Scots and Scars.

(Bold Turk).
Pardon me S. George.

(S. George).
No pardon will I give thee but
I'll fight thee more and more
Here doctor take him away.

(Tosspot).
Put up those swords and let them rest,
For peace and quietness is the best,
If you won't believe the words I say
We'll fight it out another day.

FINAL DITTY

So here we all stand, five in a row,
As jolly good fellows as ever you saw,
We're all come a begging, we think it no crime
Such doings as there was done in old times.
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

So ladies and gentlemen sitting by the fire,
Put your hands in your pockets, it's all we desire,
Put your hands in your pockets, and pull out your purse,
And give us a trifle you'll not be the worse.
Fol de ra, fol de riddle la ral li da.

(Tosspot).
Some people like lean, some people like fat.
But I like something in my old hat.

(Note: Ulverston was in Lancashire but became part of Cumbria in 1974).

CLIFTON PACE EGG PLAY

In Some Westmorland Villages (compiled by the WI and published in 1957) mention is made of a Pace Egg Play from Clifton:

"There is a local rhyme connected with it (Carlin Sunday) which runs: 'Tid, Mid, Misera, Carlin, Palm and Pace Egg Day'. During the week before Good Friday the Jolly Boys went from farm to farm and cottage to cottage performing their play, or as they called it 'pace-egging'. The characters were Old Tosspot, Molly Brown Boy, Lord Nelson, King George, Jolly Jack Tar and Dr John Brown. The each went on in turn and when they had finished saying their piece they concluded with this chorus:

Now ladies and gentleman that sit by the fire
Put your hands in your pockets, that's all we desire
Put your hands in your pockets and pull out your purse
And give us a trifle, you'll not be much worse.

Their rewards were pace eggs, oranges or money. Pace, or Pasche Eggs are hard-boiled eggs cooked with onion skin or other things to colour the shells. This is still done in the village and the Women's Institute has a competition each year for the most attractive egg and the entries are sent to the Old Folks Home at Kirkby Stephen."

Some Westmorland Villages also includes reference to pace-egging at other villages:

 New Hutton: 

"The children had pace-eggs at Easter and 'pace-eggers' went from house to house singing the 'pace-egging song' and they received either pence or eggs. They dressed up to represent the six different characters: The singer-in who introduced the others; Lord Nelson, Jolly Jack Tar, Paddy fra Cork, Tosspot and Mally Brown Bags. Tosspot had a hump back and a pig-tail, and Mally Brown Bags was dressed as a woman. It is about fifty years since the last pace-egging was witnessed in New Hutton, the children today know neither tune or words.

Warcop:

The following is Mr Jack Watt's version of the Easter Pasche-Egging Song, sung by himself and others as boys, seventy years ago, when they visited farms and houses in the village. Pasche-Eggs and pennies were given to the boys by the occupants. No copy of these verses can be traced in the neighbourhood - hence this attempt to preserve it.

Here comes two or three jolly boys, all in one mind
We have come a pasche-egging, I hope you prove kind.
We hope you prove kind, with your eggs and strong beer
For we'll not come near you, until the next year.

The first who comes in, is Lord Nelson you see
With a bunch of blue ribbons tied down to his knee
A star on his breast like silver doth shine
And I hope you remember it's pasche-egging time.

The next who comes in is the bonny young lad
With the lassies around him - they are all going mad.
He kisses them so sweetly and calls them his dears
But he says he won't marry until the next year.

The next that comes in is old 'tospot' you see
He's a valiant old man in his age and degree
He's a valiant old man but he wears a pig-tail
And all his delight is in drinking mulled ale.

The next that comes in is old miser with the bags
For the sake of her money she wears her old rags.
She has gold and silver, and she keeps a pig stall
And all her delight is in making some more.

Now ladies and gentlemen who sit round the fire
Put your hands in your pocket, that's all we desire
Put your hands in your pockets, and bring out your purse
And give us a trifle - you'll not be much worse.

Some Westmorland Villages also references pace-egging at Reagill and Sleagill.

----

Scotby Mummers Play


From Scotby Village and Parish History (held at Carlisle Archives - DSO 335/9/1), typewritten manuscript compiled by the WI, dated 1934 but with later notes:

"It used to be the custom for young men to go round to all the houses on Christmas Eve disguised - faces blacked and coats turned inside out, with staves (broom handles as a rule) and sing carols and act in dumb show. They were called 'guisers'  No member could give any words that were used in Scotby, but the following was given by one who had lived a long time in Scotby but know if it from Kelso. The words were afterwards recognised by men of Scotby as having been used in their youth. The spelling is phonetic.

The party consisted of several but the principles were three in number, the knight, his adversary and the doctor. The words were:

Galatian, Galatian is my name,
Sword and pistol by my side
I hope to win the game.

The game Sir, the game sir,
Is not within your power
Your sir or I sir
Take your sword and try sir.

They fight and one falls as if dying -
Here comes old Dr Brown
The best doctor in the town
A pickle to his nose and pickle to his tongue
Rise up and sing a song."

Witherslack

Picture and text from The History of Witherslack, Meathop and Ulpha during the Twentieth Century, by Maureen James Ba Hons, 2000).

Jolly Boys (or Pace Eggers)

The Jolly Boys were revived in Witherslack in Holy Week before Easter in 1943 (From an unpublished version of the Pace Eggers Play by Edward Meryon Wilson). From an off print of Folk Lore, March 1938). Before that they were remembered in a fragmentary way until the Great War (1914-1918). The old men remembered how well received they were at the farms and given eggs, mince pies and money, silver as well as copper. The performance seems to have taken them not just all over Westmorland but Lancashire north of the Sands as well as further afield. At the beginning of the second world war many evacuees were sent to Witherslack, mostly from Liverpool and South Shields.
Originally Tosspot comes first to clear the way. He carried a stout stick with which he thumps the ground all around. He wore a top hat and his hump is made of a bundle of shavings. St George has a large helmet decorated with long streamers of coloured paper. He also wore a sash 'a la militaire' his upper lip is decorated with a burnt cork moustache and carries a sword of wood or hoop iron. The Turkish Knight is somewhat similarly equipped  but his hand and face are completely blackened.  Dr Brown wears a disguise suited to his profession: a large and extremely old-fashioned hat is usually regarded as essential. Molly Masket is dressed as an old woman and carries the basket containing eggs and other contributions. Other characters only take part in the final chorus such as Lord Nelson and Jolly Jack Tar.

THE PLAY

The hunchback seizes his staff and beating the floor with it, dances round till a sufficiently large circle is cleared for all the actors and says:-

Stir up the fire and strike a light
And see this bloody act tonight,
If you don't believe a word I say,
Step in St George and clear the way.

(St George:) In steps St George
A noble champion bold!
With my right hand and glittering sword
I've won three crowns of gold
Twas I who fought the fiery dragon
And brought him down by slaughter
And by these means I won the Queen
The King of Egypt's daughter.

The Turkish Knight steps in forward and begins:-

In steps I, bold Turk,
Black Morocco King
My sword and buckler by my side
And through the woods I ring
I'll stab thee in thy vital gorge.
I'm brave and that is what makes us good,
And through thy dearest body, George
I'll draw thy precious blood.

The challenge is accepted and the fight begins, but not without many more verses. 

The turk is slain and a doctor is called for, after boasting about his travels, St George challenges the Doctor to revive the Turk.

 'Here Jack, just take a little out of my bottle, and let it run down thy throttle, and if thou be not quite slain, rise up Jack and fight again'.

The Turk awakes saying he will have St George in another round.

The annual celebration of life was universal: fight, death, resurrection being the common factors. Then the whole company join in the following chorus, clasping hands and prancing round singing:

Here's two or three jolly boys all in one mind,
We've come a pace-egging and hope you'll prove kind
We hope you'll prove kind with your eggs and strong beer,
And we'll come no more nigh you, until next year.*

(*50 Years Ago - May 1993 from the Westmorland Gazette)

There were seven people in it with the presenter (see photo above): Winnie Butler (sitting in the front row), an evacuee billeted with the Wilson family of Fern Hill, Witherslack. From the photograph, Norman Marshall (an evacuee billetted with the Wallings at Halecote) was St George; Alan Pearson was Bold Slasher, and his sister Joan played the part of Johnny Jack. Sheila Thornburrow was Tosspot and Jean Walker was Old Miser. Words and music were written by Mrs Brunskill of Crosthwaite. They performed the play all round the village and collected £12 for the Red Cross.

Another girl who played it in later life was Mary Clifton (nee Benson) and it continued for a number of years. Another source of it is in Lancashire folk lore (How Bury Pace-Eggers Started at emrs.chm.bris.ac.uk - link no longer valid) which included clog dances, and songs, and it was started the Saturday before Easter and considered bad luck to continue after noon on Good Friday.

A NOTE ON PACE-EGGING AT DUFTON

This is from the Penrith Observer, December 14th 1954
Round and about Column by 'Beacon'

A recent reference to Mr John Lightburn's 90th birthday and the face that he used to go pace egging has brought an interesting letter from Major Harold Deighton, who sends me a copy of The Journal of the Lancashire Dialect Society for December 1952.
In this, Major Deighton has some fascinating facts about pace egging, an old North Westmorland custom which lingered on in the Dufton district almost to the end of the 19th Century.
Pace egg is, of course, really pasche (Easter) egg and a pace egger was one who went about singing and begging for Easter eggs in the week before Easter.
With the begging went a mumming called Jolly Boying, and says Major Deighton, the actors were disguised by blackened faces, coats worn inside out, false noses and whiskers.
The players in this mumming were two or three Jolly Boys, Lord Nelson, Jolly Jack Tar, Bonny Young Lad, Old Tosspot and Old Miser.
A typical scene for the play would be a farmhouse kitchen  with the family gathered round the fire for the night.
"Suddenly the door-sneck would be lifted, and the pace-eggers would enter, tree Jolly Boys with fiddle, concertina, and voices rendering the opening verse of the pace-egging song, which was completed as they march round the supper table.

Here come two or three Jolly Boys, all in one mind,
We've come a pace-egging - I hope you'll prove kind.
I hope you'll prove kind with your eggs and strong beer,
And we'll come no more near you until the next year.

The third line gives the key to the original purpose of the visit - the collection of eggs and beer for the better celebration of Eastertide.
In our account of Mr Lightburn's birthday we fell into an error in saying that he remembered the taste of the 'mulled' ale which was a feature of pace-egging.
For mulled ale read mould ale - a sustaining hot drink, which was also much used at funerals.
Major Deighton gives the recipe supplied by Mrs J Beadle of Murton, Appleby, and if any of my readers decide to try it I should like to hear from them afterwards.
Here it is:
Take one gallon of ale, and 12 to 14 eggs.
Beat the eggs up in a basin.
When the ale is at boiling point (not boiling) put the eggs in and stir well so that it does not curd, add ginger, nutmeg and sugar to taste.
I am told that this recipe is still used every Easter at Murton. In the old days it will have strengthened the mourners and bearers as they struggled along the corpse roads of North Westmorland.
Major Deighton writes apropos of this: "There is a little known corpse road at Mildam, Dufton and tradition has it that once a corpse had to be brought from a moorland farm nine miles away, the coffin being lashed to the back of a stout horse.
"On arrival at Dutton (Dufton? - Alan) the mourners decided to 'hev yan' at the inn, leaving the horse outside. The mould ale detained them a good while, and while waiting something happened to 'flay the nag' which galloped the nine miles home with the corpse."

GRASMERE

The Grasmere pace-egging play was incorporated into the script of one of the Grasmere Dialect plays.

KENDAL

A letter in the Kendal Mercury of 2 April 1853 told of a song "sung in Westmorland by the boys when they go from house to house, begging money wherewith to buy pasch eggs":


Here's two or three jolly boys all of one mind,

We've come a pace-egging and hope you'll prove kind,

We hope you'll prove kind with  your eggs and strong beer,

And we'll come no more near you until the next year.


The lads are dressed in paper caps and ornaments rudely and whimsically imitating the supposed costume of the character they personate. The modern verse has been altered to suit modern times. But according to the number of the beggars, other characters, such as Bishops, Negroes, Judges &c are sometimes introduced. In the remote part of Lancashire, the Easter mummers are more numerous and more expensively dressed up, their rude jargon and broad dialect rendering their songs excessively ludicrous. Here are a few more verses of the Westmorland version:-


The first that comes in is Lord Nelson you see,

With a bunch of blue ribbons tied down to his knee,

And a star on his breast which like silver does shine,

And he hopes you'll remember this pace egging time.


The next that comes in is old jolly jack tar,

He sailed with Lord Nelson all during last war,

He's a right from the sea all England to view,

And he's come to pace-egg with our brave merry crew.


The next that comes in is old Toss-mug you see,

He's a valiant old man in every degree,

He's a happy old fellow and wears a pig tail,

And all his delight is in drinking mulled ale.


Old Miser comes in with her dirty brown bags,

For fear of her money she wears her old rags,

So mind what you're doing and that all's right,

If you give nought, we'll take nought, farewell and good night.


This is a very civil termination; but in former days, when the beggars or mummers were men and not boys, it was customary to introduce more imposing person than any we have named, and the old gentleman in black came in. If the inhabitants of the house seemed towards the close of the song impenetrable and indisposed to show benevolence, then the last character was introduced, who, in lonely places, was quite calculated to make an impression on the fears, if not the benevolence of the parties.


Here come I little devil Doubt,

If you don't give me money

I'll sweep you all out;

Money I want and money I crave,

If you don't give me money

I'll sweep you all to the grave.


This last verse was sung in a different tone, more threatening than pleading.


S.

March 24 1853


Wednesday, 28 February 2018

Memories of a Lamplugh Farmer

 Carting through the River Esk
Memories of a Lamplugh Farmer by Bob Jackson
Review by Alan Cleaver


Bob Jackson
THIS is one of the most charming books I have ever read. A real treasure that I'll be taking off the bookshelf to re-read time and time again.
As a townie, I've always dreamed of the romantic life of the Cumbrian farmer; that secret world full of its own mysteries and own language. So when I heard the reminiscences of Lamplugh farmer Bob Jackson were being published I couldn't wait to get my hands on a copy. I wasn't disappointed.
OK, so there's harsh reality alongside the romance but I'd swap even that for my lifetime stuck in traffic jams and staring my life away into a computer screen.
It was Rev Jim Marshall who persuaded Mr Jackson to put pen to paper and contribute a regular article to the parish magazine; this book is a compilation of those articles.
The style of writing echoes the dialect of West Cumbria and the themes of the article reflect the farming year in this rural part of the county. Mr Jackson paints a picture with a fine brush and highlights the details us 'townies' would miss, be it the different rare flowers in the meadows or the ploughing of the land and sowing of seed at the start of the year.
Where I see a hedge, Mr Jackson sees the hedge, the dyke it's on and a kest that needs sodding. It's poetry really. And while a glossary might have been helpful, I'm not sure it matters. It's enough just to let the words flow over you. That said, I think an audio book would be wonderful partner to the text book.
The Jackson family is rooted in the farming landscape and he touches on personal and family life too. Mr Jackson farms with God by his side and such faith, often in the face of great adversity, is humbling to behold. 
I'm not sure of Mr Jackson's education but he writes better than me and I claim to have been a 'writer' for most of my professional life. I'm guessing it's a natural gift for Mr Jackson borne out of his detailed knowledge of his subject matter.
Here's an extract to give a flavour of the book...

"Every season is different and this one is no different as  the snowdrops got a good start and were already showing white by Christmas. They are no further forward by the start of February due, I think, to the cold during January. In our part of the world it wasn't hard frost, just enough to put a brake on the growth of plants and save them from worse things happening."

The calendar year and Mother Nature dictate the tempo of Mr Jackson's life and work. A good understanding of what's happening in the countryside is clearly vital to farmers and Mr Jackson reminds a modern world that working with the environment needs to be a carefully balanced partnership.

This is a limited edition run of a few hundred copies so you wont see Memories of a Lamplugh Farmer in the Sunday Times Top 10 best-sellers list. I'd urge you therefore to grab a copy while you can. Sit in front of a roaring log fire, pour yourself a glass of good red wine and prepare to savour every word in this wonderful tome.

Memories of a Lamplugh Farmer is available from Lowes Court Gallery, Egremont; The New Bookshop, Cockermouth; The Beacon, Whitehaven; Michael Moon's, Whitehaven; other bookshops and  Amazon, priced £7.

- Alan Cleaver



Sacred North - a review


Sacred North by Fr John Musther, with photographs by Phil Cope. Review by Alan Cleaver

Fr John Musther is known to many as the parish priest of the Orthodox parish in Keswick. But even those not in the Orthodox church may have seen Fr John wandering around town in his distinctive blue robe, the large Orthodox cross round his neck - and his delightful long white, whispy beard!
He is as gentle as he is tall and has introduced many to his faith through his writings. In his last book, Springs of Living Waters, Fr John guided us through the Cumbrian landscape to show us the many holy wells that still survive, centuries after they were sanctified by Saint Mungo, St Begha, St Catherine and others. 
To the Orthodox church, Saints are not distant, unreachable figures high up in heaven. They are friends who walked the same paths we walk today - and still have something to tell us.
In his new book, Sacred North, Fr John - accompanied by his wife Jenny and photographer Phil Cope - have travelled further afield to show us the holy sites throughout Cumbria and beyond.
The 300-page full colour tome includes Keswick's very own St Kentigern's Church and Derwentwater's St Herbert's Isle.
St Kentigern (also known as St Mungo meaning 'my dear one') was an itinerant bishop who wandered the north in the late sixth century and  it is said he preached from a clearing (or thwaite) at Crosfeld leading eventually to the church at Crosthwaite. The size of the church is evidence of the many pilgrims who have come here throughout the centuries.
St Herbert is less well known but lived on the Derwentwater island that now bears his name making him another of Keswick's very own saints.
The sumptuous photographs and detailed text invited the reader to once again explore these sites and perhaps even wander further with Fr John to Northumberland, the Western Isles, Shetland and some of the most remote places in Great Britain. Indeed, it is fair to say that Fr John and his team have almost literally travelled to the ends of the world. Here are islands so remote they can only be reached by chartering a boat - and only then if the weather permits a landing.
This is a remarkable undertaking but the result makes all the effort worthwhile. This is a coffee-table book - but you'll need a very sturdy coffee table as it weighs in at nearly 3lbs! It is Fr John's gift to those of us who wish to learn more about our nation's spiritual history but don't have his stamina for a pilgrimage to those distant lands. And it's a book you'll read while offering up a silent prayer of thanks to Fr John and his friends.

  • Sacred North is £25 from bookshops

- Alan Cleaver

Monday, 19 September 2016

Finding Maggy

Maggy's Lonning
Maggy's Lonning, Loweswater

Finding Maggy


Maggy's Lonning at Loweswater has not quite lost its character despite it being a tarmacked road. It is a single track road (NY 13587 21016) that leads to the impossibly-small car park by Loweswater and I've always had a soft spot for it. Perhaps it's the loneliness in the north-western corner of the Lake District that gives it its appeal or perhaps it's the name. Who was Maggy and why was the lonning named after her? And there's also a packhorse bridge nearby called Maggy's Bridge (even OS mark it as such) so she appears to have been at one time a famous or well-loved person in the valley. I did once ask the farmer who Maggy was but he said no-one knew. Well, thanks to the astonishing work of the British Newspaper Archives, I've now found out something about her.

The British Newspaper Archives are slowly but surely scanning in 400 years of newspaper archives into digital format, making the easily accessible and, more importantly, searchable. I've used it many times and was randomly surfing one morning when a search for lonning came up with a note about Maggy's Lonning at Loweswater. It was in The Cumberland Pacquet for 1833:

VILLAGE FAME - A clever and worthy old lady, sister to the eldest of the three venerable men named in the preceding paragraph (ie John Mirehouse, of Miresike, who died aged 102) and who died at the good old age of 98 years, although never the owner of a foot of land has had the honour of having her name perpetuated in her native vale (Loweswater) in Maggy's Lonning (lane or road), Maggy's Bridge, Maggy's Gate, Maggy's House, Maggy's Garden and her 'flowers grown wild' and even the very birds in Maggy's Robin and various anecdotes of Maggy's sayings and doings. Poor Maggy! her garden no longer smiles, and her house now lies in ruins.

The preceding paragraph talked about the Mirehouse family which "furnishes such instances of longevity as are rarely to be met with". In particular it spoke of Maggy's brother, John Mirehouse, who died in 1807 at the age of 102. A further Google search revealed that The Literary Panorama (Published 1808) told how on his 100th birthday he "received a very numerous party of his neighbours ("all his juniors") seated in a new oak chair, and cloathed in a new coat, which, he pleasantly observed, might, with care taken, serve his life-time."

But what more of Maggy? The tantalising paragraph indicates she was indeed well loved and something of a village character but sadly not much more. Research in this age of Google can almost be too easy but a family tree on geni.com and references in Google Books revealed she had been born on St Valentine's Day 1714 in Loweswater and later married to become Margaret Longmire. She died in 93rd year (ie 1807) on Tuesday, July 14th  according to The Athanaeum Vol 2 (published 1807) at Thrushbank, Loweswater. But the Pacquet said she lived to be 98. Further research may resolve that mystery although the burial records kindly put online by the Lorton & Derwent Fells Local History Society does not include her.

So for now, we can at least revive the identity of Maggy as Maggy Longmire (nee Mirehouse) who was born on February 14th, 1714 and died in 1807 or 1813. And at least we still have her lonning - and bridge.


Thursday, 1 September 2016

Ghosts for Sale

The Tannery Boggle
 Egremont



IT was the day that The Whitehaven News (in Cumbria, UK) advertised Six Live Ghosts for sale. And it wasn’t even April Fool’s Day. October 20, 1932 was even a bit early for Halloween. Yet there it was: “Miscellaneous. For Sale, Six Live Ghosts. – Apply, Tannery, Egremont.”

The ‘explanation’ elsewhere in the paper asks more questions than it answers but reports on a most remarkable sighting of a boggle by multiple witnesses. It’s a tale worthy of Scooby Doo but the Whitehaven News reporter seemed convinced from the outset that it was nothing but a hoax. The News’s Egremont correspondent reported: “An old tannery at Beck Green which has been in disuse for many years has been the centre of great activity since last weekend. Men, women and children armed with crude but effective weapons have been engaged in a new pastime or ‘ghost-laying’.”

It seems rumours of a ghost in the building had spread through Egremont resulting in crowds of people keeping watch from the old black bridge. Among them was the Egremont correspondent who received this statement from former Sergeant Rose: “What I am going to tell you is the truth. On Thursday evening, between half-past ten and eleven o’clock, four young men came to the garage opposite in an exhausted condition. One of them was my son. He was trembling like a leaf and when I asked him what was the matter he gasped out he had seen a ghost down at the old tannery. I went to investigate and, keeping watch, I saw something rise up from the ground and float towards the tannery.”

Sadly our correspondent gives no more details of that sighting but the policeman returned the following night with his wife, son and other witnesses. And astonishingly the ghost once again made an appearance – this time bringing a fellow spectre with it.

He said: “I left the others near the Black Bridge and secreted myself in the ruins. I looked towards the top of a small hill on the road past the tannery and suddenly I was aware of what looked like a white mist rising from the ground. It gradually assumed the shape of a human body about five feet seven inches in height. There was no head and no sign of feet. Gradually the thing, whatever it was, floated down the road until it was opposite the cart entrance to the tannery. It slowly turned towards the entrance and then I made out a similar figure by its side. I called out for the rest of the party and my wife, son and two ladies came up. What they saw terrorised them. The thing had floated up the step against which carts used to back for loading and was standing in the doorway. It paused a moment and then vanished inside. The women were terrified and ran. Presently the husband of one came and we entered the building together. We lighted a candle and looked round the room but saw nothing. There was no sign of footsteps on the dust of the floor.”

The following night – a Saturday – word had spread about the Tannery boggle and more than a hundred spectators turned up. But they seemed determined to send the apparition back to its supernatural home and were armed with sticks and stones. But the ghost, which hitherto had appeared with the regularity of Hamlet’s father, failed to appear.

Mr Rose described the ghost in more detail to the Whitehaven News: “It was certainly nothing human. I particularly watched the place where its feet should have been to see how it walked, but there were no feet; it simply floated along the ground. I have been in the jungles of India and in the desert. I have seen strange sights and heard strange noises but never before have I experienced anything like this. What I have told you is the truth: the nine people whom I have mentioned by name will bear me out in that.”

At one point Mr Rose and his son had thrown stones at the ghost as it stood in the doorway but the stones passed straight through the figure. And another witness was later discovered who had seen the ghost a few days before but had been too scared to say anything. Yet despite the expert testimony of Mr Rose and the other witnesses, The Whitehaven News decided it must be a hoax, a practical joke. This seems largely based on the placing of the advert in that week’s For Sale section offering six live ghosts for sale. It’s not known who placed the advert or why.

Today the tannery ruins can still be seen but neither hide nor hair has been seen of the boggle.


Thursday, 14 April 2016

Beating the Bounds

SATURDAY, August 27 2016 will see the people of Caldbeck walk the boundaries of their parish – a tradition held every 21 years.
Why only every 21 years is anyone's guess. Such 'beatings of the bounds' are normally held annually although there are probably only a few dozen parishes in England that continue the tradition. And Wigton must be one of the last in Cumbria.
North of the border the tradition is more commonly continued as Common Riding or Riding the Marches and an echo of this can be found at Egremont each September when 'Riding the Boundary' sees horse riders process from the sports field to the town centre and back (ie not around the town's boundary!).
Such traditions were usually held at Rogationtide (so that's roughly just after the fifth Sunday after Easter) and had a very clear purpose. The people of the village would walk the boundary ensuring everyone knew precisely where it was and hopefully boundary disputes could be avoided. In some parishes the procession would literally go through someone's house and out a rear window if the house was unfortunate enough to lie across the boundary!
To help 'mark' the boundary specific stones or trees would be used but a more traditional way of ensuring young people remembered might be to give them the 'bumps' at important spots or even hold them upside down and (gently) bump their head on the ground. In 1871, a perambulation in Beckermet impressed the route on their youngsters by throwing pennies into the beck which formed the boundary and allowing them to scramble after the coins. At other spots songs were sung, sports were held or tobacco distributed. The Beckermet tradition died out at the turn of the 20th Century but was revived in 2003 as a charity fundraising venture by West Lakeland Rotary and Inner Wheel.
The only other revival of a boundary tradition that springs to mind is fell-runner Joss Naylor's beating of the Wasdale boundary in 2012 to mark the Queen's Jubilee. It's a route that stretched for 35 miles with an ascent of 11,000ft so it's probably safe to say it won't be repeated by others any time soon.
* Here is a report of the 2016 event.
* Details have not yet been released of the Caldbeck boundary walk on August 27 but will be announced on www.caldbeck.org.uk. Patterdale also holds an annual parish walk; this year it is on Saturday, July 2. See www.helvellyn.com/patterdale_boundary_walk.html